Bicol Detours

“I have always loved the beach. The smell of the salty water, the wind in my face, the gentle roar of the waves all combine to create a sense of peace and calm.”

The Bicol Region is located in the southernmost tip of Luzon Island, the largest island in the Philippine archipelago. The regional capital and administrative center is Legazpi, which is also the largest city and is considered as the center of tourism, education, health services, commerce, and transportation.

Situated in the Bicol Region of Luzon is the 12th largest Island in the Philippines, Catanduanes. It is subdivided into 11 municipalities with Virac as its capital. Several islands compose the province, but beside the main island, they are all too small to be of relative significance.

When I came back from working overseas, my utmost desire and as a reward for myself, is to explore my beloved country. What better way to start than to visit my parents' hometown of Bicol and Catanduanes.

I packed my things, went to Araneta Center Bus Station located in Cubao and got on a Raymond Bus (for inquiries, dial +632 4926964) heading to Tabaco, Albay. I suddenly remembered my former neighbor Ron, who's a ''kababayan'' of mine and lives in Polangui, which happens to be en route to my destination. I gave him a call and asked if I could come over so we can catch up on old times, and he said yes. After 10 hours, I found myself at his doorstep. We had a breakfast, then hop on his motorcycle for a bit of a tour.

Our first stop is the St. Stephen the Protomartyr Church in Ligao. Founded in 1608 under the helm of the Franciscan friars, it is a famous landmark in the city frequented by pilgrims and tourists.

After taking a few photos, we went back on the road but got ourselves caught in the rain. Even with raincoats on, we have to pull over once in a while and wait for the rain to at least become a drizzle for us to continue. After an hour or so, we managed to arrive at the Cagsawa Ruins.

Built by Franciscan friars during the Hispanic occupation of the Philippines around 1724, the Cagsawa Ruins is the remnants of an 18th-century Franciscan church destroyed by the eruption of the Mayon Volcano in 1814. It is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in the province of Albay. On a clear day, you should have a view of the majestic volcano with its world renowned perfect cone.

Some argued that the church didn't fall victim to an eruption but was actually destroyed. They claim to have recently found some photos supposedly dating 1928. The photos allegedly show the facade of Cagsawa Church still intact in the early 1900's, despite the widely-held notion that the structure had been buried under pyroclastic debris a century before.

It was right after we're done exploring when heavy rain started to fall. I got worried because in this condition, aside from the road getting more slippery, visibility will be a challenge, and the possibility of being held up in a flood also crossed my mind. If it wasn't for my friend's expert and skillful driving, we never would have made it. Though tired, wet and hungry, I'm so thankful we got home safely.

I woke up very early in the morning to catch a bus going to the port of Tabaco and from there, I had a 4-hour ride on a ferry up to the port of Virac. Thank God the weather is getting better!

We've reached the city around 10 in the morning. I checked-in at the Catanduanes Midtown Inn which surprisingly, is one of the nicest hotels that I've stayed at. The staff gave me discounts on my stay and even took my clothes to the laundry shop to get washed. The rooms are well-taken care of, spacious, with a comfortable large bed and a hot shower.

You'll have access to the rooftop where you can chill and have a view of the plaza.

It has an ideal location as it is near restaurants, convenience stores, and the port.

I went out to explore the city and pass by this edifice, The Church of the Immaculate Conception. I notice that its design is different from all other churches that I've ever seen. It looks modern and somehow seems thick and tough. I wouldn't be surprised, though. Judging from the countless typhoons passing here every year, they do have to build it that way.

What fascinated me the most is the concave ceiling above the altar where the light coming from the windows illuminates the colorful artworks, making it resemble a kaleidoscope. The Latin words ''verbum caro factum'' are also embossed meaning "and the word became flesh" which is part of a Catholic prayer called the Angelus.

I went out to buy groceries for my grandma and relatives. While shopping, I got acquainted with some of the staff at the convenience store who gladly invited me to join them at a birthday party by the beach. I met up with them at night and after a 20-minute motorcycle ride, we arrived at the Front Beach Resort in Mamangal.

It's my first time having a swim at a white beach in total darkness under the bright moon and thousands of stars. It was wonderful since the water is surprisingly warm and a bit scary at the same time, especially if you have a wild imagination (I think you know what I mean). I went back to the hotel tired, drunk and happy.

Early morning the following day, I went on the beach to catch the sunrise and look for a place to grab some breakfast. Afterward, I took my things from the hotel and went to the terminal.

I took a van on my way to Soboc and would often see Abaca or Manila Hemp fibers being dried along the side of the road. It is a product Catanduanes widely produce and is famous for. I remembered my uncle once showing me the process of turning the bark into a fiber (ha'got in their native dialect) and mind you, it is extremely exhausting.

I finally arrived at my grandma's around 4 in the afternoon. She was so delighted when she saw me. It's been a long time since we've seen each other and I surely miss her and her stories a lot! 

She's different now as she forgets sometimes and would tell me the same things over and over. I would see her sit outside reading the same book. I understand it's common for old folks and I'm sincerely grateful that she still recognizes me. I do enjoy talking to her and I love watching her looking so cheerful whenever she plays with her grandchildren.

The beach is just a few steps away from the house. Whenever the sky is clear and the sea is calm, I would run to the shore and jump in for a swim. 

The weather became worse, and a blackout would happen once in a while. Good thing we have playing cards as a past time where my cousins and I played ''unggoy-ungguyan'' and we would dab baby powder on the loser's face.

I stayed there for an entire week. On my last day, I was saying goodbye when my grandma became awfully sad and bursts into tears telling me how much she's going to miss me. To comfort and calm her down, I told her not to worry because dad is going to visit too, which he did after 2 months.

I brought some of my cousins along with me for a special treat and a tour of the capital. It was their first time to have a taste of food at Jollibee, checking in at a hotel and having a nap in an air-conditioned room. They didn't stay long as I have to take them to the terminal in the afternoon on their way home.

I stayed one more day in Virac and decided to go for a walk around the port's shoreline. Similar to the port in Tabaco, I admire how clean the area is. It's great that the local government implemented a strict policy prohibiting people to smoke, drink beer /liquor and throw garbage anywhere within the vicinity. I remembered back in the ferry, I didn't even hear anyone singing on a videoke. I think it's nice. It created a pleasant atmosphere and a quiet journey.

I left with a heavy heart thinking that it will probably take a long time for me to step foot in my beloved province again.

Though life in the province is regarded as simple, it definitely has its own charm. This adventure allowed me to visit different places, as well as the people I know. And nothing's more rewarding than to spend time in the company of friends and relatives, especially with my dearest grandmother.