Pagudpud: An Aquaphile's Haven

''If I like a moment, for me, personally, I don't like to have the distraction of the camera. I just want to stay in it''. - Sean O'Connell (The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty)

And that's what I did. Every so often I would lay down my camera, find what I consider a perfect spot, close my eyes and stay still. Acknowledging my presence, delighted within a place inspiring and unfamiliar. Reaching the height of awakening and epiphany.

A coastal resort town located in the province of Ilocos Norte, Pagudpud is popular and best admired for its white sand beaches. However, that's not the only reason that will make your visit delightful and memorable. There are also several interesting attractions that will make your stay definitely worthwhile.

As always, the most important thing to consider when planning a trip is the weather. You may check here for updates: Pagudpud Weather Forecast

There are many ways to go there and it's about a 10-hour journey if you'll be coming from Manila. You may take a bus from Victory Liner, Florida Bus, and Partas Trans Co. in Cubao or take a plane and have a 45-minute flight from Manila to Laoag City. From Laoag Airport, you can hire a tricycle that will take you to the bus station heading to Pagudpud.

Our accommodation is at Henry's Homestay near Saud Beach. We arrived around 10 in the morning and had breakfast first. We then hired a tricycle for the tour of the south. Our first destination is the Kapurpurawan Rock Formation.

A bronze statue depicting Lam-ang (a hero from an Ilocano pre-Hispanic epic poem) opening a mouth of a crocodile.

The place is quite far from where we stay and you will already be able to see many windmills along the way. After a few minute walk from the parking lot, we had an awesome view of the smooth creamy-white limestone flaunting along the shoreline. We wanted to have a closer look but were restricted from going anywhere near and only took photos from the view deck. They said that it's not just to prevent vandalism and abuse, but over the years, it became fragile and must be preserved from further deterioration.

Next stop is the majestic Cape Bojeador Lighthouse sitting on top of Vigia de Nagparitan Hill overlooking the South China Sea. Built in 1892 and towering a height of  65 feet tall, it is still serving its role as guide to international ships. It was declared a National Historical Landmark and a National Cultural Treasure by the Philippine Government. On our visit, the lighthouse along with its museum is undergoing renovation, so there's nothing much to see but its facade.

Our last destination of the day is the Bangui Windmills. Facing the West Philippine Sea, they were built as a part of a renewable energy source supporting 40 percent of Ilocos Norte's electricity and has then become a popular tourist attraction. I have no idea they were this huge. You will feel tiny and be overwhelmed as you marvel at these colossal when you get here. I'm not surprised that they have chosen this location for the windmills as it is very windy.

Finally, we headed back to Saud Beach to catch the sunset like what we always do and to take a dip into the water. Dubbed as the ''Boracay of the North'',  this beach is pretty amazing. I personally believe that Boracay is nothing compared to this one, though. I've been to Boracay twice and for some weird reason, I never felt a sense of belonging, whereas here, I feel pretty much at home.

Though it is crowded when we got there, I still find it very attractive and it has never lost its touch of tranquility making it suitable for a family vacation. There are stores along the beach and what I love the fact that they allow people to grab a few beers, sit along the shore and chill, making it a perfect spot to hang out with your friends as well.

We had an early start the following morning and went to Saud Beach for another taste of the ocean. I'm happy to see families frolicking in the water while enjoying each other's company.

We again hired a tricycle for the northbound tour. Our first stop is the Kabigan Falls. They drop us off at a parking area where we registered, got ourselves a guide and had a 30-minute hike among the fields, the streams, and the lush green forest.

We arrived at the falls. At a height of 120 feet, it was such a magnificent sight. This place has something beyond beauty the eyes can see. You will sense that the falls, as well as its surrounding, have this positive revitalizing energy.

The water is so refreshing and with its shallow depth of 41/2 feet, even a no-good swimmer will have no fear of drowning.  I didn't see any parents hesitant to allow their kids go anywhere in the water because it is somewhat leveled or what my friend used to say no ''sudden depth'' means no ''sudden death''. Mind you, this is my most favorite part of the tour and I plan to go back someday only to swim and camp beside the falls.

Next, we went to Bantay Abot Cave, which surprisingly is not a cave but more of a tunnel leading to the other side of the beach. As I savor the warm gust of the ocean wind passing through my face, I find it really soothing where I just sit and enjoy my presence in a place new to me. After a good 30 minutes or so, we left to check out the Maira-ira Cove or Blue Lagoon.

If you are on your way to the Blue Lagoon, you may want to try the 1.150 kilometers ''Asia's longest open water zip line'' across the open water. My friends and I didn't bother to try it out since we've already done almost the same thing when we visited Hundred Islands a few weeks ago.

Our guide took us to the far end of the beach where you will see the twin mountain, Dos Hermanos (two brothers). My friends took advantage of the tide being low, walked through the coral land bridge, climb the mountains and take some photos.

I, on the other hand, chose to sit under a tree, listening to Johann Pachelbel's Canon in D on my iPod, enjoying the impressive view while waiting for them.

A few meters from Dos Hermanos is the Maira-ira Cove or Blue Lagoon where we had another swim. Frankly, I didn't find this beach amusing as it has an abrupt slope, the waves are rough, the grains of sand are coarse and I've also observed that after a wave hits, the water level will unexpectedly get deeper, which makes it dangerous. In my opinion, it may be a place for surfing, jet ski or for any other kind of water sport but not a suitable place to swim especially for kids. So be very, very extra careful. No offense. I prefer Saud Beach over this one.

I lost track on how many times we had a dive into the water on this tour. All I know is, with this place's seemingly endless opportunity for a swim, Pagudpud truly is an aquaphile's haven. We didn't go back to Manila right away. Part of our plan is to pass by Paoay Church on our way to Vigan.

We calculated the expenses that we incurred in this trip. They are as follows:

Bus Fare from Manila to Pagudpud -  700 pesos

Tour of the South - 900 pesos for 3 people

Tour of the North - 600 pesos for 3 people

Saud Beach Entrance Fee - 20 pesos

Kabigan Falls Tour - 20 pesos each for the preservation fee and 100 pesos for the guide

Accommodation for 3 days and 2 nights - 2,400 pesos for 3 people

The Experience - Priceless!

I recommend staying at Henry's Homestay. The price of their room is reasonable. They're very helpful and even kind enough to provide us a container of drinking water for free during our stay. For reservations or inquiries, you may give them a call at this number (0920) 258-9087.

TIPS AND TRICKS

1. I know I shouldn't be telling you this as it is already customary to bring water when you go on a tour, but this time I suggest you bring more. Most of the tricycles don't have a roof on the driver side, so if you're the one assigned to sit at the back, make sure to wear sunglasses and a hat. A sunblock and an umbrella really come in handy because it gets really hot, especially at noon.

2. If you'll be hiring a tricycle from Pagudpud for the tour of the south, It will cost you 600 pesos. However, once you are in the municipality of Burgos, you will be transferred to a different tricycle where you have to pay 300 pesos extra. As we were told, only the tricycle driver in Burgos can take you on a tour within their area. This is a reminder so won't be surprise and think that they're cheating on you. Personally, I call it a ''fair share''.

3. Back in Blue Lagoon, I was underwater when a wave came crashing and suddenly found myself spinning as if I'm on a washing machine. Next thing I knew, I was in the lost city of Atlantis (just kidding!). No, I am basically still in the same spot yet the water level is way above my head when previously it wasn't. So be very cautious when having a swim there.

4. At the Kabigan Falls, there are bathrooms nearby where you can change into dry clothes after the swim before you continue with the tour. Keep in mind that it is prohibited to drink or smoke there so please follow the rules.

5. Souvenir shops are available at the entrance of Kapurpurawan Beach. There you'll find miniature models of windmills, keychains, and whatnot. They cost less compared to the ones being sold anywhere else, so take advantage of it. 

6. Some of the paths going back from the beach are dark, so bring a flashlight. The small one will do. During our visit, there was an outage and the streets became pitch black. As mountaineers, good thing we always carry a headlamp with us.

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